It was back in 2004 that I first got to know Buenos Aries. Late-boom and pre-devaluation, Faena was merely a fashion name, Puerto Madero was still a developer's dream and neighborhoods in Palermo were just starting to gentrify. I watched as so many friends bought enviable lofts and period apartments in Recoleta, only to be stuck with them or unable to transfer funds out of Argentina at the depths of its financial crises (yes, plural). But with a new President, devalued currency, exchange controls lifted and ride-share behemoth Uber arriving in the next few days, Buenos Aries emerges onto the world stage, yet again, for luxury travelers and second homebuyers.
Porteño, people from Buenos Aries, love to boast about the area they nest in. While scouring the city with real estate agents from En Buenos Aries, or posher Sotheby's International, you'll want to stay in the neighborhood you'd most likely want to reside. For us that's Recoleta. Here you'll find stylish hotels like Hub Porteno or residential Algodon Mansion - our top hotel pick in Buenos Aries. A bespoke neo-classical mansion, Algodon offers a series of wine-theme suites with a dapper lounge bar and rooftop pool that's as luxurious as nearby Park Hyatt Duhau Palace - the city's top luxury hotel. For a taste of Palermo Soho, hit Legado Mitico that's a fashionable townhouse-style boutique hotel and arty enclave for those arriving for May's Art BA - South America's largest contemporary art fair.
By day, Buenos Aries is full of touristy pastimes like exploring La Recoleta Cemetery to organized tango tours. Instead, seek out posher pursuits like a carouse through Casa Cavia (pictured) with its bespoke perfumerie, bookstore and cafe or perhaps take in a polo match at Campo Argentino de Polo. On Sunday hit the antiques market in San Telmo or lunch at some of the city's top open-fire kitchens like Don Carlos in La Boca recently touted by Gwenyth Paltrow or Happening in Puerto Madero. It's also in Puerto Madero that you'll find the nearby waterfront filling with destination eateries like Le Grill and Chila, two of the best restaurants in the city. Afterwards, hit Faena Hotel + Universe with its Starck-designed lounge that's still a must-see or the evening cabaret show orchestrated by Alan Faena, who with his recent Miami-property has proven to be one of the world's most formidable hoteliers (and entertainers) - even in boom and bust Buenos Aries.