A charming agricultural village greets guests unloading from the thirty-or-so daily ferries arriving to Salina's Port. The greenest and more evolved of the Aeolian Islands, it's become a popular destination for post-Carpi jetsetters looking for a deserted-ish island setting with a good dose of style. Arrival to Caprofaro begins in an all-white passenger van with heavy-set woman grunting "Capofaro this way." A long winding road navigates through the hillside and up a perilous mountain road that links the village to the resort. Needless to say, you won't be walking to town. The island is a lush green and framed by a deep-blue seascape on every horizon. Luxury doesn't really begin until the gates of the resort, well presided over by a whitewashed bungalow housing the hotel reception and "gift shop."

Recently, the main eatery of Capo Faro opened its door to a wider season offering full-restaurant service and gourmet feasts from mid-April through October. The resort is cast in manicured green lawns with a picturesque lighthouse competing with distance views of Panarea and Stromboli. The centerpiece of the resort is a white-decked pool area with handmade lounges conducive to lengthy afternoons in the sun, albeit with a fabulous terrace restaurant and groovy bar operated by a very social (and sexy) staff. For those looking for something more active, the resort also features a large tennis court and various walking trails that lead to the mountains and sea. 

The Room:

Guest rooms sprawl across the entire vineyard; it and the resort are owned by one of Italy’s top wine producers known for the sweet Malvasia wine. Low-whitewashed bungalows contain the 13 guest rooms and 5 suites that define the resort. The bungalows are constructed in typical Aeolian style with minimally pitched roofs and shaded terraces. Rooms are liberally decorated with whitewashed wooden furnishings and subtle fabrics opening to airy patios with views of Panarea and the occasional eruption of nearby Stromboli. Bathrooms offer simple indulgences like local bath products and soaking tubs overlooking the Malvasia vines, but aren’t the sprawling spa facilities you wish for in a 5-star resort. The four suites each have expanded living areas in addition to the bedroom, and larger terraces with abstract rattan loungers. Although there is satellite TV and spotty Wi-Fi, time passes rather slowly within the resort and should be anticipated with a good selection of books, magazines and games.