JETSETREPORT

Maison Boulud

Boulud moves into Beijing’s gourmand scene

Hours 11am-11pm, daily
Phone (86) 010 6522 4848
www.danielnyc.com/maisonboulud.html

Legation Quarter 23 Qian Men Dong Da Jie 100006 Beijing China

restaurants

Located in the newly refurbished Legation Quarter just east of Tiananmen Square, one of New York's most famous chefs debuts his first restaurant in Mainland China within a turn-of-the-century compound once home to the US Emissary. Rich lawns and mature landscaping surround a dignified beaux-arts façade of stone balusters and ornamental detailing containing the prized eatery and series of high-end shops. Visitors enter via a main reception flanked by a dramatic white double staircase perfect for grand entrances and hasty departures, Unfortunately for dramatists, the restaurant is actually on the first floor with the entryway separating it from the bar and lounge. The bar is lined in walnut paneling with long chocolate-brown bar flanked by leather barstools opposite a lively lounge with freestanding banquettes and tufted-leather club chairs. The main dining room is presided over by a hostess desk with waif-size staff that leads guests into a cozy parlor of 30-or-so tables dark wood tabletops and chairs.

The Food

You never know what kind of kitchen you’re going to get when a star chefs decides to branch-out with affiliate eateries. Chefs like Thomas Keller close down their main kitchens and temporarily relocate their entire staff to duplicate the perfection of French Laundry at New York’s Per Se. Others, like Gordon Ramsay, simply hire an apprentice chef to attempt to duplicate elements of their better eateries for culinary disappointments like Gordon Ramsay in LA and NY. Boulud oversees the entire culinary implementation of Maison Boulud, creating a gourmand outpost befitting his food empire in New York. The menu begins with appetizers like terrine of foie gras, composition of green salad and seafood samplers like King Crab that reflects the local fish market. Entrees like pork belly, seared scallop with fried zucchini flower and beef two ways are delightfully orchestrated by Boulud’s executive chef Brian Rhymer. Food is complimented by a masterfully assembled wine list of pricey French and Italians as well as the occasional Chinese selection. Dessert is a mix-and-match of cheese plate, chocolate stuffed éclair with homemade gelato and signature cookie plate.

Last Word

NY star-chef debuts Beijing eatery in ornate bureaucrat palace near Tiananmen Square.

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