With a surplus of style and a shortage on substance, many of the new eateries popping up in Miami's Design District will like fade faster than a pair of $300 True Religion's. But Mandolin Aegean Bistro is the antithesis of all that, from an utterly charming house that feels equal parts LA's Ivy (without the tourists) and Santorini's Oia. It's located inside one of the few 1940's ranch houses on the NE 2nd corridor between Design District and Buena Vista lucky enough not to be bulldozed in lieu of some big, glitzy pseudo strip center. Once inside, the outside bass and vibrato of Miami fades into a lull of pretty Aegean blue furnishings arranged inside a main room taverna arranged in vintage bistro chairs at white wooden tables near blue trimmed windows exploding in bougainvillea. Just outside, a back garden is a visual delight with whimsical outdoor furnishings with Greek oil canisters turned into flower vases under a lantern-lit tree and open sky.
The Food
This is a Miami eatery where guests come to eat. An appetizer menu of traditional Greek specialties includes a sampler of tzatziki and eggplant puree with pita wedges and olives. If ever there was a time for fried food splurging, don’t miss out on the zucchini fritters or calamari with almond tarator dip. But by far the best appetizer on the menu is the marinated grilled octopus that’s far better than any we’ve ever tasted in the Aegean. A straightforward beet walnut salad or Greek presentations are good, but predictable. Turkish-inspired sandwiches and gyros leave a garlic-punch with main courses of whole fish, village pasta with ground beef and béchamel sauce or bifteki served with French fires topped with yogurt dipping sauce.
Last Word
Queue Abba. Design district eatery in historic 40’s house offers an Aegean food and dinner fantasy worthy of a musical tribute.