For a certain generation the Beatrice Inn will always be remembered as a fashionista romp, at least until Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter partnered with Emil Varda and Brett Rasinski on its redux. Now it's a high-class steakhouse with a downtown address privy to serious dinners and transitional late night lounge scene. The space is new world money divided between a bar and two dining room framed in with glossy white woodwork. A small bar traps those without a reservation with those waiting for their table. Once inside, the rear dining room is the chicer of the two amid ornate fireplace with a wink of gothic detailing, private booths and African wildfire paintings.
The Food
An old school Manhattan cocktail menu yields to a thoroughly citified steakhouse menu with impressive raw bar selections, mix of ladylike and manlier salads and onto a primal main course of meaty specialties for a petit fillet to a Wagyu rib eye for two that worth the two-fork price tag.
Last Word
Vanity Fair editor’s latest New York eatery offers cast of NY elite and showy bar for a restaurant scene that’s gotten progressively better in terms of food and glamorous crowd.
