In the planning stages for almost a decade, alas Andre Balazs' UK debut comes to a historic Marylebone firehouse that's now one of London's most fashionable haunts. Like most of his famed dining rooms, there's no flashy theme or gimmicks to be found around the lofty space illuminated by sunlight by day and flicker candles as well as celeb wattage by night. With a charming garden cocooned under giant umbrellas and interior dining room, the latter is contained under patchwork ceiling with white balustrades and floors that turn from checkerboard tile to rustic wood planks and back again. Service is divine, at least to look at, with convivial service that's subject to a slow kitchen and the ardent demands of visiting Americans.
The Food
A two-handed all-day menu includes starters like sea trout with yellow mole, steak tartare with chipotle hot sauce and soft poached egg on morel mushrooms with garlic. Further, heavier appetizers include grilled octopus with eggplant and vegetarian barley and oat risotto. Main course channels the classic American Grill menu of the 1960s with spring lamb on broad beans, pan-roasted chicken with leeks and wood-grilled ribeye with onion rings.
Last Word
Chateau Marmont-owner does showy Marylebone brasserie with terrace and dining room stocked with London-elite.