Much of summer's attention falls on the Italian coasts from the
brashness of Rimini to the decadence of the Amalfi and Aeolians. But
autumn arrives with gusto in the Italian capital as locals return to
their everyday lives of 6am wake-up calls, eternal traffic, and café
culture that thrive from every echelon of the social spectrum. A hotel
stay in Rome
is an unexpected privilege with a plethora of boutique luxury chains
like Manfredi Hotels, Dorchester Collection, Rocco Forte and Lungarno
Collection that each curate a distinctively local experience for
visiting travelers from the newly renovated Hotel Eden to the Ferragamo
Family’s bespoke Portrait Suites and our longtime favorite Hotel de
But recently, the arrival of Fendi Private Suites and J.K.Place Roma have disrupted even our allegiances. In early September we checked-out J.K. Place located on a cozy Roman lane a short walk from Via Conditti and the Spanish Steps. A dapper set of doorman preside over a locked entrance, leading to a parlor-style reception and lobby that feels more like a residential salon with its plaster Roman statuary, contemporary artwork and mid-century Italian décor. It's by far Rome's most stylish property, with infinite design details that wow from the concealed elevators and marble covered thresholds to the 30-guest rooms with paneled dressing vestibules and rosewood four-poster beds. The J.K. Café and lobby lounge were all but abandoned during our stay, aside from the chatty barman that served almost too many appetizers with my single glass of Vermentino.
In Fall, much of the city's café and bar scenes come outdoors for the crisp seasonal weather like along the terrace of Stravinskij Bar at Hotel de Russie with its fruity spins on the classic Spritz and live music that serenades til dark. The cuisine of Rome often gets knocked by passing visitors that prefer the more regional, identifiable cuisines of Naples or Piedmont. Established spots like Antica Pesa and Michelin-starred Antonello Colonna lure with their location and clientele even if the favored anchovy and sardine dishes don’t suit everyone. For pasta, go to the tried and true Roscioli for the city's best cacio e pepe or bohemian Pianostrada in trendy Transverse with its curious collection of homemade pastas and bread-based dishes that are not for the carb-shy. Afterwards, hit up the incredible mixology scene at Salotto 42 of the recently revamped Goa Club to dance til 6am on a lively weekend night in Eternal City.