It took until 2005, but MoMa finally got the glitzy star dining room that so many museum-goers craved and deserved. Proprietor Danny Meyer, of Gramercy Tavern and Union Square, offers a dazzling design space overlooking the Sculptural Garden from a thoroughly modern dining room and more casual café. Divided by a wall of frosted glass, the more formal restaurant features a drum-like entrance to which guests pass by a white marble bar into a lofty two-story atrium of paneled glass and compact tables assembled with New York's haughtiest ladies who lunch. A distinctly Danish-vibe hovers over the space with abstract tableware and simple geometric shapes to the furnishings. For dinner things turn a bit more formal with synchronized unveilings of main courses under silver domed plate warmers from a posturing wait-staff in pantaloons and waistcoats.
The Food
Under the direction of executive chef Gabriel Kreuther, a native of Alsace, this elaborate dining experience is a contemporary spin on traditional European cuisine. Kreuther came from stints at Atelier at the Ritz Carlton Central Park and Restaurant Jean Georges. Courses are marked at One, Two and Three beginning with eccentric appetizers like Alsatian Tarte Flambee with smoked bacon, tuna tartare served upside down, and torchon of foie gras served with candied ginger. Middle, or #2 Course, is a variety of wild mushroom soup, small selection of seared scallops or duck bread served with pistachio dripping sauce. Main courses are a more simple selection of wild salmon, crispy Atlantic cod and 28-day dry-aged rib-eye served with blue cheese flan and mustard jus.
Last Word
Alsatian-chef dazzles in architectural MoMa dining room overlooking Sculptural Garden.
