In a glamorous old-style building overlooking the Forbidden City, thorough new world chef Brian McKenna revamps this familiar dinning room with a new look and substance that has the world taking note. The space barely resembles its previous incarnation as a ho-hum east-meets west gourmand; today it’s vividly recreated into a minimalist sanctuary of monochromatic walks, spare tables and astute staff. Intricate architectural details come from its interior designers that are more familiar with hotel spaces, subtle strips that double as acoustic barriers on the ceiling or perhaps the elongated cutout that gives you a 12-inch glimpse of McKenna in the kitchen. <style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:"MS 明朝"; mso-font-charset:78; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;} @font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-unhide:no; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;} .MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; mso-default-props:yes; mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-fareast-language:JA;} @page WordSection1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} --> </style>
The Food
For anyone that ever ate at ROOMBeijing, the mastery of Brian McKenna is little surprise in this showcase dining room overlooking the East moats of the Forbidden City. A menagerie or tasting and ala carte menus begins with raw bar delicacies like fresh-imported live French oysters, Massachusetts lobster and Toro tuna coupled with a Whispering Angel Rose. Further charcuterie and foie gras terrine accompaniments make for a hefty beginning to main course of sauteed king scallop with cauliflower textures, poached belly of salmon with grilled foie gras or rump and neck of Australian lamb.
Last Word
Former-chef of ROOMBeijing finds signature dining room in famous space facing Forbidden City.