One of the toughest Soho restaurant to get into of any at the moment is Polpetto located on the upper level of the French House, an acclaimed and slightly knobby literary haunt that dismisses anything that has to do with TV, film or celebrity culture. Past a main floor terrace with bearded Guinness drinkers and women in scarves and sunglasses despite the evening's darkness, a narrow stairway that feels like it would lead to a bathroom opens to a small landing with Swedish host long hanging surveyed your approach with clipboard in hand. Inside, a single room dining room of well-worn tabletops, mismatched chairs and coveted banquettes facing a second-floor Soho street scene. Without air conditioning, windows let in a breeze that sends the row of simple, flickering light bulbs swaying in unison.
The Food
There is no shortage of charm at Polpetto, even before the first bite. A choice of 30 wines by the glass fulfills its proletariat promise followed by a daily menu of small plate Venetian osteria dishes like grilled octopus, caramelized onion flatbread and delicate monkfish sourced from small farms and producers in northern Italy.
Last Word
Literary club in London's Soho offer upstairs small plate eatery with impeccable atmosphere and flavors.
