It seemed like a good idea until we got into the cab that was taking us to the Waverly Inn without a reservation. New York socialites, Vanity Fair readers and Perez Hilton-addicts inevitably know it as a culinary green-screen for blue chip celebrities like Harvey Weinstein, Giselle Bundchen and Tom Ford who come in seek of A-list company and New England comfort food. Sure I had read about Mariah Carey and Stiffler showing-up without a reservation and making the walk of shame back to their awaiting sedans, but I was entirely clothed and free of American Pie baggage that surely owner Graydon Carter disapproves. The exterior is cozy and casually smug with leaded windows and cheerful sign that seems ingeniously inviting. I arrive with both feet in the door as I take in the comfy surroundings of the rustic booths, crackling fireplace and well combed staff that seems more Schrager than serious journalist owner. Alas the hostess arrives, surprisingly cheerful and coaxes me through the, "No, I don't have a reservation." She instantly scurries about the restaurant and returns without a single judgmental look and replies, "If you stick around we can probably seat you in a few minutes."
The Food
Growing-up on the west coast I don’t really understand food items like pork chops and fondue-for-two. While in concept they seem quite comforting, the idea of eating a pig or eating either bread or cheese makes my skinny thighs quiver. To my delight meals begin with a selection of seafood and veggie-minded appetizers like steamed artichoke, tuna tartare or cliché New England Clam Chowder. Entrees include numerous free-range and organic offerings that almost console those who pity the poor hen or pig that went into the free-range potpie or meaty pork chop. The wild salmon and mussels served with fires looked splendid as I tucked into my Vegetable Plate with green curry that reminded of my first experience on Air India, albeit without the obvious Olsen sighting.
Last Word
With no reservation line and a walk-in policy as welcoming as the front gate of Bergen-Belsen, Waverly Inn offers the pretty, rich or chic an average opportunity to experience mindful New England cuisine in an environment of ridiculous congratulatory and self-promotion not seen since the 1980’s. But when it was all said and done, I begged for that reservation number so I could come the following Saturday night!
